As nanopartículas nos cosméticos
Nanopartículas? Lipossomas? Nanomateriais? São termos cada vez mais empregues no desenvolvimento de produtos cosméticos pois a nanotecnologia tem vindo a desempenhar um papel importante na indústria cosmética.
A nanotecnologia é uma área da ciência que envolve materiais com dimensões na escala nanométrica. Inclui o desenho, caraterização, produção e aplicação de estruturas, dispositivos e sistemas de controlo da forma e tamanho de partículas. Esta ciência usa essencialmente estruturas atómicas e moleculares como base para a criação de novos produtos e dispositivos, designados nanomateriais (nanopartículas, nanoemulsões, lipossomas,…).
O que são nanomateriais?
Segundo o Regulamento(CE) nº 1223/2009, «Nanomaterial» é um material insolúvel ou biopersistente, fabricado intencionalmente e dotado de uma ou mais dimensões externas ou de uma estrutura interna, numa escala de 1 a 100 nm.
São partículas tão pequenas que só são visíveis ao microscópio. O facto de serem pequenas significa, por vezes, que também se comportam de maneira diferente em comparação com a mesma substância em tamanhos maiores, o que pode influenciar o seu potencial risco.
Os nanomateriais podem ser produzidos com diferentes materiais, sejam polímeros, lípidos, metais, entre outros. Também podem ser fabricados com uma grande variedade de formas, de maneira a criar partículas que funcionam como princípios ativos, ou que os incorporam no seu interior.
Funcionalidades
O uso de nanomateriais na formulação de cosméticos apresenta várias vantagens:
- melhorar a penetração e/ou estabilidade de substâncias ativas (ex: ácidos gordos insaturados, vitaminas ou antioxidantes);
- aumentar a eficácia de alguns filtros UV na pele;
- libertação sustentada das substâncias ativas para obter um efeito mais prolongado;
- melhorar a cosmeticidade.
Aplicações nos cosméticos
Regulamentação
Os cosméticos colocados no mercado da UE são regulados pelo Regulamento relativo aos produtos cosméticos. Este fornece um quadro de segurança e estabelece um sistema central de notificação para os produtos cosméticos colocados no mercado da UE. Corantes, conservantes e filtros UV, nomeadamente os que são nanomateriais, devem estar autorizados pela Comissão Europeia antes da sua utilização em cosméticos. Antes de ser concedida a autorização, o Comité Científico da Segurança dos Consumidores (CCSC) procede à revisão dos dados toxicológicos (em especial em caso de inalação, ingestão ou aplicação cutânea) relacionados com a substância para a qual se pretende uma autorização.
Os fabricantes, importadores ou os terceiros designados devem registar os seus cosméticos através do Portal de Notificação de Produtos Cosméticos (CPNP). Se um produto contiver nanomateriais, o notificante deverá identificar o nanomaterial e especificar a via mais provável de exposição.
Todos os ingredientes contidos sob a forma de nanomateriais devem ser claramente indicados na lista de ingredientes. A palavra «nano» entre parêntesis deve figurar a seguir aos nomes destes ingredientes.
+info em:
https://euon.echa.europa.eu/pt/general-information
https://echa.europa.eu/pt/regulations/nanomaterials
http://www.infarmed.pt/web/infarmed/perguntas-frequentes-area-transversal/cosmeticos
REGULAMENTO (CE) Nº 1223/2009 DO PARLAMENTO EUROPEU E DO CONSELHO de 30 de Novembro de 2009 relativo aos produtos cosméticos
https://euon.echa.europa.eu/pt/cosmetics
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